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Bandhej Silk Garments
Bandhani Silk garment
Among the Bandhej Silk Garments, different types of attires are included. These are The bandhej saries are found in rich variety with blazing red jari pallu or palav. These saries are worn in special occasions. Through careful observation of the images imparted on these saries, golden yellow and white colored tiny resist dyed spots can be seen. These small dyed spots are called as "Bandhs". The bandhs are accompanied with elaborates figures of elephants, creepers, leaves, peacocks, etc. Creating the figures during Bandhej is very intricated and the entire process of tyeing the fabrics take more than one month of duration for one single saree.

The Bandhej
The art of bandhej was originated in the colorful land of Rajasthan. Today, Jaipur, the capital city of Rajasthan is famous fro producing the most unique bandhej saries in all over India. In this city, different color experiments and introduction of new patterns of bandhej have been introducing frequently.

The ancient reference was achieved about Bandhej from Bana Bhatt's Harshcharitra. In this book, descriptions were given about the process of how to skilled the old matrons into many sorts of textile patterns. The attires upon which the new textile patters were depicted, were used by the women. Bandhej is a tie & dye process of garments.

What is Bandhej
In Gujarat and Rajasthan, the art of tie and dye is known as Bandhej. In traditional pattern of Bandhej, there were typical designs and color schemes. The centers of inception of Bandhej art are Jamnagar, Bhuj, Jaipur and Anjar. Initially this process was developed as a craft work, but now a days, the machine process has been gradually replacing the original craft process of Bandhej tie and dyeing.

The use of bandhej saries are more popular in the Northern and eastern parts of India and these saries are very popular during the marriage ceremony of the brides. The rich embroidery and decorative work of the bandhej work give a pleasant happiness. To adorn the bandhej beauty, some other things like gota, zari, sequins, kundan and exquisite mirror can be added. The patterns which are depicted in the Bandhej tie & dyeing process are: animals, birds and human figures.

This bandhej process is applicable in salwars, saries, dress materials and kurtas. This process is used on the lighter shadows of blue, pink, yellow, black and turquoise and after applying this process, a stunning effect can be achieved. Around one week of time is required for producing intricated bandhej designs on a piece of cloth. Each part of the cloth is carefully dipped into the paint and then tied to get another contrast of color.

Bandhej Process
In the Bandhej process, the clothe has to be dipped into a selected color-bath. After dipping the cloth into the color bath, the cloth is required to be folded to a quarter of its original size. The Bandhej tie and dyeing is generally done on the selected portions of the sari, like pallu, border of the sari, or the body of the sari- is tied with strings. Through tying these selected portions, various designs are formed. Combining the small dots and circles, the designs are made. Without taking the help of colored strings and dots, the artisans make the designs.

The discharging of colors and tying of the borders is known as Servo Bandhavo. The borders of the bandhej saries are broad, and for coloring them, both type of colors, contrasting and complementary are used. With minute attention to detail, the designs are composed. A great number of color schemes are used.

Coloring Process of Bandhej
In the coloring process, first the lightest color scheme is applied and then the cloth is tied. After tying, the deeper color scheme is applied on the cloth. This process is repeated till the darkest shadow is not availed. To get the desired background color, the cloth is dipped into the desired color or we can say that the last color into which the cloth is dipped would become the background color. The common colors used in this process are: golden yellow, black, maroon and red. The size of the dots will determine the quality of the bandhej. The smaller and denser the dots are, more would be the higher quality of bandhej.

Ancient Uses of Bandhej Process Garments
Earlier, the Bandhej garments were considered very felicitous for the brides. The painting of maids are depicted on the walls of the Ajanta cave by wearing blouses which were manufactured by bandhej process (Tie and dye manner).



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